Industry leader in Fire Suppression since 1999

FAQs

Common questions about motorsport fire suppression systems.

  1. What agent/extinguishant should I use. The agent used to suppress and or put out the fire which can be grouped into 2 categories.
    1. Gas systems: The agent comes out of the nozzle as a gas or a liquid that quickly changes to a gas that will fill a given area and needs to be above a % in the air to suppress and or put out the fire.
      • The most well-known is Halon and in motorsports the 2 used most were 1211 & 1301. Halon is not allowed for FIA Homologated systems since 1997 and SFI 17.1 Spec in 2008. No longer in production in the USA and Europe because of environmental impact since 1994 because it is a CFC.
      • 3M™Novec™1230/FK5112 considered a Halon replacement. Also considered one of the safest for both those in contact with it and the environment.
      • DuPont FE36 considered another Halon replacement. Is an HFC so does have an environmental impact. In Europe and now the US HFC’s usage is being phased down too much lower amounts.
      • There are other Halon replacements, but rarely used for motorsport fire suppression systems.
    2. Liquid systems: The agent comes out as a liquid. The “liquid”, as some term it, quenches the fire and with AFFF (aqueous film forming foam) creates a boundary layer to prevent reignition and/or break down of the fuel.
      • AFFF (Aqueous Film Forming Foam) comes in many formulations for different applications and percentages. So, the AFFF is mixed with water and the % is the amount of AFFF. The more common % seen in motorsports are 3% to 10%. Some will work on alcohol (AR) and some will not. A few are also rated as a wetting agent such as FireAde.
      • 2023 new Fluorine Free Foam.
      • Coldfire also is mixed with water and is rated as a wetting agent. This means it has very good cooling properties.
      • New for 2021 from SPA is 4Fire Universal. Achieving fire outs on par with gas agents. Also proving very effective on big drops in temperature on lithium battery fires. Rated for A, B & F fires in Europe.
  2. My rules say I can use a FIA Homologated or SFI 17.1 system. Which do I choose and what size?
    1. FIA Homologation and SFI 17.1 Spec systems are tested differently.
      • SFI you can go to their web site, http://www.sfifoundation.com/autoracing/ , and go to SFI Spec 17.1 and look at the test procedures and the current participating manufactures.
      • FIA is not as easy. But here is a link to their requirements for fire suppression systems, http://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/regulation/file/FIA_Standard_Extinguisher.pdf, or search FIA Standard Extinguisher. Then there are more requirements for different groups of cars. Also the list of manufactures is on FIA Technical List 16, http://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/regulation/file/L16_Approved_extinguisher_system_7.pdf.
      • If you read through these tests, you will find them to be more different than you would expect. From fuel just being poured in a pan to an actual engine block that must be heated up then fuel poured over it. Also, one requiring a rotational test to see that the Agent will come out with the cylinder/vehicle in any orientation.
      • New for 2015 is FIA 8865-2015. This specification is much more difficult. It took effect for World Rally in 2016 and was recommended for others. Also, the list of manufactures is on FIA Technical List 52.
      • New for 2018 is SFI Spec 17.2 for single seat, rear engine racers.
      • New for 2023 is SFI Spec 17.3 for Sprint Cars which has an upside-down test.
    2. So, the decision would be which tests and agent seem more applicable to your application. Bigger is always better.
  3. Why chose a SPA fire suppression system?
    1. SPA Design - UK has been making motorsport fire suppression systems since 1989.

Maintenance and things to check with your fire suppression system.

Activation

  1. Mechanical systems:
    • If the system you have you can put a safety pin and or disconnect the cable so you can pull or push the cable as installed. You can then try it and make sure the cable will work as installed.
    • For new installations this is a good idea to make sure you don’t have any bends that are too tight making it too hard to use. If already installed to makes sure the cables have not got dust, dirt or even rust preventing it from working.
    • If you want to add some lubrication, we recommend graphite as it will not attract dust and dirt like oil or anit-seaze will.
  2. Electrical:
    • These from most manufacture will have their own power source/power pack. Normally on this power pack there should be a battery test, system test/wiring check. Ultimately the battery and system check should be done before every session.
    • If the system does not have a system (wiring is good) check, get rid of it and buy a different system as you will never know if it should work.
    • New for 2016 with FIA 8865-2015 homologated system are also required to have a light that shows the system is on/active and ready for use.

Nozzles, tubing and fittings

  1. Nozzles:
    • Check that they are free from dirt and debris and are still aimed in the intended area
  2. Tubing:
    • Check that it is not crushed or kinked preventing the agent from travelling through properly.
    • Blow air through to get out any dirt or debris that might have gotten in through the nozzle.
    • With AFFF or other liquid based agents, if the system has been set off, run some water through the line to keep the agent from drying up and causing a possible blockage in the line.
  3. Fittings:
    • Make sure the tubing is installed properly to prevent leakage.

Mountings

  1. Make sure there are no cracks or damage to the mount.
  2. Also take into consideration the size and total weight of the cylinder and if the mount is up to the task in a heavy crash?
    • Like 2 ordinary hose clams around a chassis tube that has a weight of 10lbs or up.

Service Date

  1. Why have a service date?
    • FIA and SFI require that the system be serviced/checked every 2 years.
    • Like all other components on a race car, products wear out and fatigue over time and or need to be changed. You don’t want to find out a part has failed you can’t see, or the agent has gone bad when you need it.
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